A Big Surprise in the Stone Soup Kitchen
J. Glenn Eugster, Fontana Free Press
October 22, 2001
Leonardtown, MD. The 35th Annual St. Mary's County Oyster Festival
Saturday was
the setting for the what was billed as the battle of the "Cooking Pisanos".
Charles "Petro" Petrocci of Chincoteague Island, VA. was scheduled to meet
Alex
"The Dish" DeSantis of Bethlehem, PA. in the main bout of the National
Oyster
Cook-Off. Although De Stantis and Petrocci received top-billing and
months of
newsprint from far and wide, it was Dawn "Downtown" Brown of Baltimore,
MD. that
stole the show in the "Stone Soup Kitchen". Brown won the hearts and
stomachs
of the standing room only crowd with her "Grilled Oysters Athena" and left
the
audience wondering, who are those two other guys?
The Cook-Off, the centerpiece of the Oyster Festival for the last 22
years, pits
the top 12 oyster chef's in the United States against each other in four
categories of competitive oyster cooking. This year's contestants came from
Oregon, Illinois, New Jersey, Connecticut, Mississippi, Vermont, North
Carolina,
Louisiana, and the Chesapeake Bay region.
Three contestants are picked by a panel of experts for each of four oyster
cooking categories--Main Dish; Soups & Stews; Hors D'oeuvres; and Outdoor
Cookery & Salads. Each of the contestants has one hour and fifteen
minutes to
cook. Contestants present their food to five unforgiving judges and then
present their dishes to the hungry and oyster-crazed audience.
Workers, in white rubber gloves, ladle small amount of oyster dishes into
little
white cups and hand it to the audience which lines-up in single file the
length
of the auditorium. The procession, which some call "the religion of
oysters"
seems hauntingly similar to communion at a Roman Catholic Church. In
Southern
MD, the Land of Religious Freedom, this procession to receive oysters
seems only
natural.
Petrocci's return to competition after an extended absence drew a large
number
of spectators to the County Fairground Auditorium. Petros return, plus his
being placed in the main event versus DeSantis made this cook-off one of
the
most anticipated and talked about cooking competitions in St. Mary's County
history. Spectators started filling the concrete block auditorium early
in the
morning to take their place to witness this part of Southern MD. History.
The Cook-Off was also covered by the Food Network which is scheduled to
produce
a television show on Oyster Festivals later this year. Camera-people,
reporters
and extras swarmed the stage, photographed minor cooking details and talked
constantly with the contestants as they prepared their dishes.
The audience sat patiently through the Main Dish, Soups & Stews and Hors
D'oeuvers competition waiting for the arrival of Petro and The Dish.
Members of
the audience talked of the time when Petro forgot that the each of the
Outdoor
cooks are provided with impregnated coals. People recalled that Charlie
soaked
his charcoal briquettes with lighter fluid, lit a match to the grill and
set the
side of the auditorium on fire. Even now there is debate among the cooking
aficionados as to whether Petros fire was accidental or planned to give
him a
competitive advantage.
As if the excitement of the cook-off wasn't enough, during the event the
Grand
Master of the Cook-Off introduced the "King Oyster" to the crowd. As the
King
made way to the podium to make a few welcoming remarks to the crowd the
Grand
Master called for the audience to acknowledge this icon of oysterland.
Unfortunately the King was really a Queen--a fact that wasn't acknowledged
until
the King was seen leaving the building with the Grand Marshall in a
headlock.
Unfortunately Petro and The Dish could have used a diversion this year.
Downtown Brown, a relative unknown chef from the heavily polluted Port
City of
Baltimore, captured the gold medal for Outdoor Cookery and Salads. With
style,
grace and a splendid selection, Ms. Brown made DeSantis and Petrocci, who
finished second and third respectively, look like two older guys who can
look
but can't cook. Brown's "Grilled Oysters Athena" clearly outdistanced
Petro's
"Flambeed Oysters, Squid & Mushrooms" and The Dish's Touch of-Thai Grilled
Oysters with Mango Salsa". Ms. Brown did Charm City proud as she pulled
down a
unanimous score from the judges and an overwhelming majority of votes from
the
audience.
The crowd was stunned by Brown's performance. Their shock was short-lived
however, for as soon as they sampled her dish they realized that there is
a new
oyster chef in Leonardtown. It didn't take the audience long to get over
the
disappointment that the DeSantis and Petrocci contest just never
materialized.
Many of the audience believe that Petro and The Dish were thinking too much
about the next level of oyster cooking competition. Winners from the St.
Mary's
Festival take home $1,000 in cash, an oyster bowl, bragging rights for a
year
and get to go to Ireland to compete against international shuckers and
chefs at
the Global Oyster Festival.
DeSantis took the competition and his second place finish in stride. The
Dish
said, "I've been here quite a few times. I usually finish second. You
never
know what the judges will like, one year it's this, one year it's that".
Petrocci, surprisingly obtuse this year, seemed disconnected about the
event.
He said, "I'm not organized this year. I don't have a costume. I have to
get
in touch with my coals. There's too much going on right now--I can't
focus".
Petrocci's return to Southern Maryland was much anticipated and heralded.
Petro
has single-handedily carried the oyster-cooking-honor of the Eastern Shore
into
this competion many years and has done the Delmarvians proud. Although
Charlie
has proven to have Jordanesque powers, making these types of comebacks
over, and
over again, each time he creates an expectation that is Neptunean. Perhaps
Petros third-place finish can be chalked up to the stress that has
permeated all
of our lives since September 11. Then again maybe Petro's longtime Oyster
Festival companion, Chef Marie, said it best, "Charlie's only human, you
know--and we do have a good time coming to Leonardtown".